SUPER MEGA FPV DRONE GUIDE (UAVFuture’s guide extended)

SUPER+MEGA+FPV+DRONE+GUIDE+%28UAVFuture%27s+guide+extended%29

By: Ethan South

Hey so I wanted to create a full guide for everything about the FPV drone and troubleshooting. I’m going to go through the parts, the video, and some troubleshooting. IF YOU ARE HAVING A PROBLEM READ THROUGH ALL OF THIS GUIDE.

 

Part one PARTS USED

MOTORS

The motors included appear to be high quality. For an upgrade these motors look pretty good. One thing to not is that one comes on when they are armed to let you know that its armed. Also the motors might not all come on at the same throttle level due to variances in resistance. [We are currently facing a roadblock with only some of the motors coming on, soldering is suspected as the issue]

ESC

This is where your motors connect. The base one in the guide looks mostly fine. Most ESCs are actually four different ESCs for each of your motors. This is one of the most high power components in the set. When powered will play a sound. When connected to a flight controller it will play another sound afterwards. [We experienced a small fire apparently in the ESC, its still working but this might not be the last we hear of this.]

PDB

This is how your 5v battery gets to 9vs for a few components. NEVER ASSUME THE VOLTAGE OF A COMPONENT. In the current setup all our components are 5v but they MIGHT NOT ALWAYS BE. Look on the components on banggood and that should help you figure it out. The PDB is the most susceptible to overheating, it gets soldered the most [I’ve spilled a bit of solder on one before and it completely died]. I would recommend just soldering wires out of of ground and 5v so that you don’t have to do that much direct soldering to the PDB.

FLIGHT CONTROLLER

The flight controller is the brain, one of the most important parts. Almost all components are directly dependent upon it. (Motors are indirectly and camera and vtx are not.) It contains all of the sensors for your drone. The flight controller connects to the motors and the radio. Contrary to the guide, the ports you want to solder your radio to are ports power, ground, and (this is the one that is different) port 4. He claims it goes on port 1 (which is wrong). In order to actually use your FC with the software shown in the guides (Betaflight) you must flash the firmware, which is not fun. In order to do so you must short the two ‘BOOT’ pins together while plugging the micro USB cable in. You should not see a status light. Open the Betaflight flasher [Which you need to install along with needed drivers] and click flash. You may need to flip some of the switches. [I don’t remember which, look it up] and also should try several times [sometimes the first flash doesn’t work]. Remember that whenever you are using your flight controller with software you ABSOLUTELY 100% NEED TO HAVE A MICRO USB DATA CABLE. If your cable is a ‘power only’ cable (most cheap micro usb cables) then the computer will not communicate with you FC.

CAMERA

The original cheap camera was garbage. The soldering was crappy and they where easily broken. The new camera doesn’t have any wires directly connected to the camera. THIS IS GOOD. Its one less point of failure if the only thing that can break is the wires connected to a port. THE NEW CAMERA MUST BE ON THE 5V RAIL. The old one was fine on the 12V but the new one will flame out on the 12. [As of right now the camera is working but with lots of interference that needs to be optimized for. (Keep wires and antennae away from the camera and VTX broadcaster. Even though that sounds unnecessary you really do need to minimize interference)]

VTX

The VTX is what actually transmits your camera feed to your headset. If you are having camera issues 99% of the time the issue is with your VTX or camera, NOT YOUR HEADSET. The headset doesn’t even need the antennae to work for a few feet. The first VTX was FRIED IN A PIT OF FIRE AND BRIMSTONE. Just kidding. It was overvolted. Some  students before me thought that they could put in on the 9v rail. It looked fine, and it turned on fine, but it was fried and didn’t actually transmit.

OTHER COMPONENTS

Your visor should be on the same channel as the VTX. The VTX will display a letter followed by a number [Ex. A1] 

You can translate the number and letter with the chart above. The visor/FPV googles should show the equivalent number for your letter and number. The frame is good enough but it wil be hard to mount everything. There are not enough of the screws/hardware left so you will need to source more. I might look for a more beginner friendly frame because you need to probably buy a new one anyway. Make sure not to melt your screws while soldering.

SOLDERING ADVICE

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Solder random wires together until you can do so cleanly and without melting the insulation. Turn the solder down to about 350 on the gold numbers. At that temperature you will not immediately melt the board and you will also be hot enough to easily melt the solder. Always use the smallest solder, the larger solder in our box is plumbing solder. DO NOT USE IT. It kinda fizzes and bad things just don’t use it. Use the clips with the bendy arms to stabilize your cables. Always pre-solder your wires, it really helps.

IN CONCLUSION

Everything I learned her was found on the internet and though experience. YOU CAN FIND IT THERE TOO. This guide is not fully featured but you will succeed, or at least learn something.